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Saturday, September 28, 2013

Business Chica

Yesterday I had business meeting uptown, so I decided to wear my Tracy Reese Vogue 1092

Vogue 1092 - Tracy Reese Front

Vogue 1092 - Tracy Reese Back
V1092
Vogue 1092 - from the Vogue Patterns website


I made this up last year as a work suit staple.  It's such a different look for a suite with the gathered bell sleeves and the pieced skirt.  I also love the buckle detail on the sides.  Its got a small godet in the back of the skirt that acts as a kick pleat, and the fact that it's comfortable to wear is a big plus.

Bottom rear of skirt


This was made over a period of a couple of months and was a bit complicado.  I had a lot of trouble getting the curves on pockets nice and smooth (yes, there are supposed to be 4 pockets on the jacket - 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom of the jacket front).  I gave up on the curved pockets and tried rectangular ones.  Those didn't have a prayer so I abandoned the pockets completely and just left them off.  I don't think it takes away from the finished garment - digo yo

Matching plaids and stripes can sometimes be an issue, but in this case it wasn't difficult but just took time.  I was thankful that I had purchased more yardage than what was recommended on the pattern envelope. 

Finally, I had to purchase a grommet maker to install the grommets for the side buckles.  This was a pretty fun project after I had done a test on some scrap fabric, of course.

Close-up of the buckle

There's a lot of topstitching required in this pattern, and I have to admit that this was not one of my strongest sewing skills.  I did a lot of poking around on the internet and within my own sewing library to glean some tips from some very talented chicas who sew, and that really helped.  The most helpful tips I learned were to use an actual topstitching needle (I know, duh) with your topstitching thread, to lengthen the stitch length and to practice, practice practice.  I think the practice was really key.  After completing this garment, I feel that my topstitching abilities have improved.  I no longer fear topstitching or automatically omit it when I'm sewing something, like I used to do.  And, I've done some topstitching on some recent garments I've sewn, and I'm pretty pleased with the results.  ¡Algunas cosas cambio!

The other thing that made this a complicated sew were the bound buttonholes.  Ay, ay, ay - let me tell you. We are just not friends.  In the end, I made some passable-on-the-outside bound buttonholes, but more work is necessary for me to hone this skill.  If anyone knows of a good tutorial or other reference for making bound buttonholes, please pass it on.  My thanks in advance.

More detail about the fabric: it's is a lovely wool pinstripe suiting that I purchased at Mood.  It handled beautifully and was a dream to sew.  I lined the entire suit in a thick rayon lining, with a coordinating non-wool fabric for the facings.  Although I love touching wool, sewing with wool and wearing wool, my skin just can't take wearing it.  I have to have something non-itchy between me and the wool - the thicker the better.

Here's a peak on the inside showing the coordinating facing and lining (and not much of the bound buttonholes, hee hee):




In the end, I'm happy that I persevered and finished it!  It's comfortable and fun to wear adding a more whimsical look to my sometimes staid business wardrobe.

I have one last summer project on my sewing table to complete and will then begin my autumn sewing binge.  I'm getting really excited about all of the fall colors and patterns I'm seeing out there that I want to interpret and produce on my sewing table!  Stay tuned.

¡Hasta Pronto!

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