Thursday, September 22, 2016

I've found my midi! - Simplicity 8086

I found my midi!  I finally found a midi skirt pattern that fulfills my wish list in a midi skirt.  Who knew it was hiding in a dress pattern?  Simplicity 8086 by Cynthia Rowley, skirt view A is my new go-to midi pattern:

My new midi with a purchased white top.
I’ve been looking for a midi skirt that hits at the right length for me, while having enough fullness and volume without overwhelming my frame. 

I love the sleeves on this top!

This pattern is just a rectangle that’s pleated to take in the fullness, which makes it easy to sew.  However, because that rectangle has just the right amount of fabric, it works perfectly as a midi.

Because this is a dress pattern (to be blogged separately), I did have to add a waistband.  I did the tied and true straight, interfaced rectangle, cutting it extra wide for a 50’s aesthetic. 

With the left over scraps, I made Burda #114 – a crop top from the June 2016 issue.  

I eliminated the lower bottom band in the top pattern so there would be some bare midriff between the waistband of the skirt and the top.  To test the fit of the pattern, I cut the lining first and used it as a muslin.  I adjusted the fit of the muslin/lining in the center back, by taking in ½ inch.  In the shoulders I needed to eliminate about 1½” from the back straps because it was so baggy around the back armhole area.  Cutting away this amount in the back strap area, really improved the fit.  

When I cut the top from the fashion fabric, I just shaved off ¼” on both sides of the center back piece and then eliminated the 1½” I knew needed to be taken out of the back straps.  

Because of the number of pieces in this pattern, there are lots of places to make fitting adjustments.  Overall, I think I ended up with a fairly nice fit.

Let’s talk about the fabric.  This is Tommy Bahama’s, Swaying Palm indoor/outdoor fabric that I purchased on ebay.  It is most definitely home dec fabric, and is the opposite of soft and drapey – more like bark cloth.  Against the skin, it’s rough and super itchy, even after a warm water wash and a machine dry.  But, I had to have it, and this print was nowhere to be found as apparel fabric.   I figured once in my hands, I could make it work. 

So how is it that this chica can wear this fabric, especially in a top so form fitting, without feeling like I’m having an allergic reaction?  The secret is lining!  I lined the skirt, the waistband and the entire inside of the top with white cotton fabric.  I mentioned how I cut the lining for the top above, but for the skirt, I just cut a rectangle of fabric, sewed the side seams and gathered it.  I then basted it to the inside of the pleated fashion fabric, then sewed the waistband on, catching the top edges of both the skirt and the lining within the waistband.  This outfit is all rough and scratchy on the outside but nice and soft on the inside.

It's a bit wrinkled on the inside - I can't stop wearing it!!!

This skirt just rocked my summer wardrobe!  I’ve worn it every chance I’ve gotten, and I love how it can be dressed up or down, depending on my mood and whatever event I’m attending.  If only summer were just a little bit longer so I could wear this outfit even more.

Hasta pronto!

1 comment :

  1. Hi Julie,
    Just been introduced to your blog by Rhonda Buss posting about you today.
    I love the outfits you have been making, and particularly would like to trace the pattern for the amazing cream off the shoulder top with the unique long sleeves. Could you guide me to the pattern please.

    Kindest regards,


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